some great problems! Is it a destination? NOWAY! In fact, it's not that great. Lots of
contrivances and uninspiring easy problems. However, there are some standouts and
some great hard problems have recently gone up. The potential is almost nothing as I
have searched and cleaned every possible nook and cranny. There are about 80
problems, but 50 are contrived. Here are some photos of some of the greats:
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traverse. A very nice V5
on the skull boulder.
The Skull boulder is by
far the best bit of rock at
Hinkley. There are
about 18 problems on
this boulder alone. 6 are
2 star or better and not
contrived. see list below.
undeniably the best and
hardest problem in Ohio.
It is tall and proud with
the crux coming at about
15 feet off the ground.
This is Adam sending
the crux move the right
hand crimper is smaller
than the mandala crimp!
The landing is good and
the starting holds are
jugs.
For Hinkley this is an
amazing test-piece and
fun problem. In the grand
scheme of things it is a 2
star problem, but that
may change as it gets
more ascents and more
cleaning. It is definitely
Ohio's prize climb.
It has only seen three
ascents so far and is very
weather & beta-intensive.
Some of Ohio's strongest
have still not completed
it.
It had sat as a project
for about 20 years believe
it or not! I was fortunate
enough to steal the FA
with some new beta.
AWESOME PROBLEM!
Let me know if you send
it!
See below for the beta.
easy climbing on often wet holds to
gain a set of slopey jugs as seen at
the left. These wet holds never seem
to dry and I think they do detract
from the problem a bit. They don't
get your hands wet, but they just feel
perpetually manky.
Left: Siemay gets to the "starting
jugs." From here the problem is as
awesome as it is difficult.
Right: Adam chalks up befor the
long move to the very bad right hand
crimper. This sharp, flat crimp limits
the tries on the problem. You will
lose skin fast if it is not cold out.
There is a slopey scoop below the
crimp, but it is too hard to use and
the problem has not gone yet using
that hold.
crimp. Better to do static,
but this move is dynamic
for shorter climbers.
Right: Noah on the
same move. I can keep
my feet low. Man that
crimp is bad!
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some footwork needs to be
done before setting the left
heel (or in this failed attempt,
toe) onto one of the jugs.
Once the left foot comes
up, you have to pull really
hard with it in order to use
the horrible right crimp! Then
you slap to a ridiculous little
slopey depression in the
rock. This is the first very
hard crux that most everyone
falls at repeatedly.
If you can get the slopey
dish with your left hand, then
the battle begins: You must
rock your weight to the left,
over your left heel hook.
eventually the position is
right and you must stab
visciously for the next left
hand slopey ledge. This was
the hardest move for me (it's
out of the picture, above
Adam's left hand in the
picture.
final slab for the
First Ascent.
ascent of this amazing Ohio
sandstone climb.
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