Thousands maybe tens of thousands of granite boulders of every size litter the island of Virgin Gorda.  In addition, Fallen Jerusalem, a new area we have been developing, is a national park; a whole separate island with hordes of pristine granite boulders of every size and shape.  These island boulders have abundant strange features reminiscent of sandstone.  Many also have completely blank faces with perhaps only one hold.       I feel lucky to have been climbing down in the islands for over five years. High quality first ascents still adorn this tropical treasure trove. Probably less than one percent of Virgin Gorda "fat virgin" has been explored.  Every time we go back, we find something new, wonderful and even better than before.     Fallen Jerusalem is a bear to get to-- you need to sail or swim the open ocean!  However, it is brimming with potential, beauty, and classics that are true sculptures, such as, The Melting Ice Cream Boulder which has the V4 classic, Ocean Delight on it or Picasso's Revenge V2, on the Rodin Boulder.     Meandering through the boulders is not easy but is rewarding.  Much akin to boulder-hopping at Hueco Tanks, the access entails plenty of cactus dodging.     We found a dyno project, "Old Man and the Sea," that is the coolest looking dyno I've seen since Hale Bopp or the Phantom Fighter Dyno in Moab.  I wish I had a picture for you. You have to dyno out of this scary little room.  The waves crash into the seaside boulder.  You can only hear the powerful CRASH that causes a surge of white angry water that engulfs the ground stone from which you start. It is not enough to get you wet but scares you into trying harder to escape.  The dyno is about 2 meters and proud as hell.  It starts on a near vertical face from a crimper ledge (you get good both-hand inward pull) and leads to the most outrageous embedded diorite jug. If it was slightly off-vertical, you might need to be Michael Jordan to latch it.

Fallen Jerusalem is a National BVI Park about .5 miles from the end of the Baths on Virgin Gorda. The rock has more diorite inclusions than Virgin gorda. I would say overall that Virgin Gorda has more potential and easier access than Fallen Jerusalem, but any trip to the BVI for climbing seems incomplete without sending the weird granite classics on Fallen Jerusalem. Putting up some classic FA's of your own on this hard to get to little bouldering island is priceless.  We hired Speedy's (for 100$ US) for an all day excursion.   Another day we sailed over on my parents sailboat.  We found it best to circumnavigate the island to the left, along the shoreline, to access "The Farside" from the obvious drop-off beach.  If the waves are too aggressive then it may not be worth trying to get there. One day we swam a football field from the boat to access the uninhabited island.  Brian Capps ingeniously wrapped a 99 cent pink floatation raft   around his crash pad and swam it, in-tow, from the boat!  Lee Payne, My brother, Asher and I were the first over and were laughing madly at the brilliant sight.