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the same stuff, you'll get really good at climbing that stuff; crimpers, slopers, dynamics, the
same stuff, you'll get really good at climbing that stuff; crimpers, slopers, dynamics, statics,
whatever. All attributes in climbing are synergistic, that is, they work together to make us
better than the sum of the attributes.
make us better than the sum of the attributes.
For this month, let's focus on example weaknesses of mine and how I'm rectifying them.
DYNAMICS...
No matter what you can hold onto, at some point or other you have to throw yourself at the
next hold (or foot!(eg. Ashtray)). This requires timing and precision. We all know that if you
throw an apple in the air it will reach a highpoint (deadpoint) and fall back down. At that
highpoint it's just deadweight. Weightless. Be the apple. Whenever you throw yourself in any
dynamic motion, the way to make the movement easiest is to grab the hold when you are
weightless so that you can hold on. Theoretically, with good enough timing and precision, we
should be able to make any dynamic move between two holds that we can hang from
(deadhang!).
Great, NoaH, but how the hell do I start throwing to the small shit?
When I was learning to play guitar, I always rushed everything. I wanted to be able to play the
piece I was learning immediately. I finally (after years (I'm a bit slow)) listened to my teachers
and slowed down... WOW! with a little bit of patience I could all of a sudden learn anything
(almost). The Point: start throwing to jugs, In fact, start throwing close jugs. Make all throwing
problems with contrived feet or microjibs. But throw, throw, throw! Try to make each throw's
timing perfect! Begin to feel the sweet spot of the "deadpoint grab." Even the best climbers
out there aren't that close to perfect deadness (ie. 0.00 acceleration). If they were, V16 would
be old news.
CONTROLLING THE SWING:
This takes tension, will and variable relaxation/momentum kill. Again, the way to improve on
swing-killing is to start small on big holds... It's important to have variable tension for
swinging. While you hold on tight, and your chest, shoulder and traps keep solid arm-arm
tension, your core tension should melt so that your body falls to its new stable spot without
pulling you off. You get pulled off when you swing out to far and the holds become less
positive. If you let your stomach and back relax for a moment then you become less of a
board and your weight falls down instead of being translated into angular momentum. Also
key here is to reduce your torque on your holds by pulling up and reducing the radius of your
swing. Try these techniques on big holds with short throws at first. Do it for a month and
you'll shock yourself when you can begin to make the holds smaller and further apart. It
works.
TRAIN YOUR WEAKNESS:
Want to climb harder? Can't crimp that well? Stop doing those sick hard sloper problems and
drop a few levels to work your crimps (or whatever). A chain is only as strong as its weakest
link... What's yours?
I suggest asking your partners, videoing yourself cranking, or just pay attention to your style.
You'll also train new muscles that will add to your previous strength. That's a good thing.
Whatever, like all enlightened souls of the modern era I'll add the cliche: Just have fun!
(the thing is, improving is fun, and flailing blows)...
Goodluck hardmen and hardwomen, keep striving!
PS. for all you cats out there who think you are limited by some genetic lacking, here's the
thing: we all are. You're still so far from your potential that you have no idea how hard you
COULD climb. Free your mind of that silly limitation. It's just an excuse not to try as hard as
you possibly can to improve. Without this extreme total commitment, you'll have no chance
of progress past some arbitrarily low level of performance (even if that is V10 or V1). Free
your mind of bullshit doubts. You can be the best if you create yourself... Your body will
follow your mind. So lead on Brothers!!!
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