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variation of it?
"...Strength is everything."
Can climbing be broken down to one essential essence?
"...Timing is everything."
All these aspects of climbing, while crucial, probably do not make a master.
Maybe then "balance is everything." Perhaps. Perhaps not in the cerebellar
sense, but maybe in the "division of labor" sense.
How to climb harder:
1) Train success: do problems that are challenging for you in (arbitrarily) three to
fifteen goes. This trains strength and technique and balance. An environment
where success is the endpoint is key. That means if it takes you three weeks of
hard work to send that V10 great, but you could have been learning alot more (and
getting stronger) by doing 10 different V5-V7s a night. Soon it'll be ten V8s a
night. It feels better to send. MORE SEND = MORE HAPPY = BETTER TRAINING.
This may not be true for everyone...
2) Vary your problems: Wow, Jorge can crimp V12 but falls off V7 slopers! Don't
be Jorge; balance is key. Do problems with lock-off, throws, tension, etc. on both
sides. If you suck at slopers, try to only open hand (everything) for 1 month. I
guarantee you'll add a grade to your climbing. A TEAM is only as strong as it's
weakest link. Vary angles, vary committment, vary your variance. BALANCE +
HARD WORK = IMPROVEMENT. Try it and see...
3) TECH TIPS: You can always push a little harder with your feet. Your toes need
to be stronger. If you're not screaming, you're not trying your hardest. If you
want to send too badly on certain problems, you probably won't (you'll distract
yourself). Moving your hips an inch is huge. Any one of us can climb as hard as
we want, it just depends on how much we're willing to sacrifice to that end.
Therefore, try to be happy with your climbing now (see above equations.) If you
want to climb really hard climb with people weaker and stronger than you are. It's
like hangin' out with both younger and older cats... It keeps you in touch; it keeps
you real. If you are getting frustrated, ask yourself why. If it's because you can't
do the problem, chill out, you suck and everyone knows it. Do something easier.
We all have our own style, discover yours and master it (every other month that
you're not working your weaknesses.) Once you master it move on to
complementary styles (slopers and tension; open crimp and throws; crimps and
sick pulling; footwork and hipwork.)
4) Go to gyms were no one knows you and campus everything without saying a
word, this is good for confidence and puts things into perspective... (*I wrote this
years ago, I'm still not sure why or what I meant, but it sounds pretty haughty,
ehh!)
5) Master stupid human tricks like (but not limited to): slackline, quarters, the foot
game (turn stuff on and off, open/close stuff, kick stuff.) Pick up chicks (not with
your feet,) girls - pick up guys...
6) It's your potential, you uncover it. It's a big job and only you can do it. It's
really hard and you'll grow in everyway if you perservere.
7) IT'S MORE WORTHWHILE THAN ANYTHING ELSE*
(8)*(except maybe love)
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